Details
[31 Dec - 7 Jan] 3 nights in Swakupmond -> ~320kms -> 2 nights in Sesriem -> ~100kms -> 2 nights in Namib Nauklauft.
 |
| Deadvlei (see Sesriem below) |
Cape Seal colony
On route to Swakupmond from Mile 108, we stopped in at the Cape Cross Seal reserve. This is reputedly one of the largest cape fur seal colonies in the world & is one crazy (but worthwhile) experience hard to describe or "sum up" with a strong fishy smell, din of the colonies calls & constant movement! An assault on the senses & a little distressing. So, um, I'll leave this one for Ben!! Here's his take...
Swakupmond
After weeks travelling in 'rustic' style, we rolled into our first town Swakupmond on new years eve feeling pretty dusty & stale to be honest!
Swakupmond is a well known tourist destination - a charming coastal town that doubles as an adventure sport hub. Strong German influences remain in the architecture of the town, furthered by various German referenced hospitality spots. Quite different to anywhere we'd been thus far.
We stayed at Desert Sky Backpackers, with easy walking access to the town centre. NYE festivities had the small town packed out, a definite festive holiday vibe going on. We decided to embrace the change of environment - starting with a good shower, laundry refresh & out for a lovely late lunch at The Tug! The same trend continued for our stay - very relaxed & maybe a bit indulgent. Of our various dinings & walkabouts, got to give special mention to The Village Cafe - fab decor, vibrant warm vibe & hearty food - pop in if you're ever in town!
We also headed to Walvis Bay one morn, seeing pelican & flamingos super close from the town promenade (before dropping off the mother at Walvis Bay airport). Both Swakupmond & Walvis Bay struck as nice towns, Swakupmond seemed primarily tourism focused, whilst Walvis Bay is Namibia's largest commercial port (partially offset by the tourist attraction of the birdlife in particular). It was a pity we were in town (Swakupmond) over NYE public holidays, so of course a good bit of the town was either shut down or partially so!
 |
| Desert Sky Backpackers, lawn area |
 |
| Sea mist rolls in, giving an atmospheric evening in Swakopmund |
We also headed to Walvis Bay one morn, seeing pelican & flamingos super close from the town promenade (before dropping off the mother at Walvis Bay airport). Both Swakupmond & Walvis Bay struck as nice towns, Swakupmond seemed primarily tourism focused, whilst Walvis Bay is Namibia's largest commercial port (partially offset by the tourist attraction of the birdlife in particular). It was a pity we were in town (Swakupmond) over NYE public holidays, so of course a good bit of the town was either shut down or partially so!
Sesriem
On the 3rd Jan we set off for Sesriem (the famous dunes, Soussesvlei). Yet again the Namibian landscapes kept amazing & changing!
We stopped off at Solitaire, a wee village known for it's picturesque if bizarre car graveyard & some great apple pie - we had said apple pie... as well as a burger pie (yes, apparently this is a thing) & hot dog & cheese in a pastry roll (again, apparently a thing).
Hit a heavy storm on the approach to Sesriem, making the 4x4 do a little work, to find Sesriem isn't so much a town as the NWR (Namibian Wildlife Resorts) gate really.
We'd booked in to stay in the NWR campsite which is within the first 'external' gate for the national park & dunes - this means that when the second 'internal' gate opens at 5.10am you have relatively peaceful access to the dunes for sunrise, before the external gate opens ~1 hour later for everyone else. That & it's a lovely campsite with shade (oh so precious when the midday heat sets in!) & electricity point, usual communal blocks (containing kitchen/ laundry/ablution sections), shop, restaurant/ bar & a little swimming pool.
We got up super early to make the 5.10am opening time... erm, or close enough to it! There felt like there was a bit of a dash for the dunes as the internal gates opened, so we thought we'd opt out & cruise a little slower... until (dope!) we realised that, with ~65kms to cover to get to the main dunes, you can very easily miss the whole sunrise event. Dawn light crept up as we were driving, but that lovely gentle light stayed on a good while as we started with Deadvlei. We did the mandatory dune climb, which was a little bizarre. Then took in the adjoining petrified forest, where everyone is angling for that perfect/ iconic picture.
Soussesvlei next, walk at base - spotted tracks, further down track gemsbok (iconic buck for this area)... heating up with direct reverse effect on energy levels. Quick swim back at camp & into hiding... Late afternoon ~5pm, heat lessened, out to dunes again for the sunset light. Seems they move around the dunes open to public? Dune 45 arrived to only 1 couple in sight - up on the top of the(ir) dune. Short climb, pics & sundowner. Had seen gemsbok, ostrich & springbok, but on the slow drive back saw a brown hyena! A shy animal which, in all my various park visits, I've never seen. Great sighting as he trotted alongside the road, periodically stopping to size us up. Absolutely made up!
We stopped off at Solitaire, a wee village known for it's picturesque if bizarre car graveyard & some great apple pie - we had said apple pie... as well as a burger pie (yes, apparently this is a thing) & hot dog & cheese in a pastry roll (again, apparently a thing).
Hit a heavy storm on the approach to Sesriem, making the 4x4 do a little work, to find Sesriem isn't so much a town as the NWR (Namibian Wildlife Resorts) gate really.
 |
| Heading into (& through) storm on route to Sesriem |
We'd booked in to stay in the NWR campsite which is within the first 'external' gate for the national park & dunes - this means that when the second 'internal' gate opens at 5.10am you have relatively peaceful access to the dunes for sunrise, before the external gate opens ~1 hour later for everyone else. That & it's a lovely campsite with shade (oh so precious when the midday heat sets in!) & electricity point, usual communal blocks (containing kitchen/ laundry/ablution sections), shop, restaurant/ bar & a little swimming pool.
 |
| Our campsite in Sesriem (NWR camp) |
 |
| Dinner at camp |
We got up super early to make the 5.10am opening time... erm, or close enough to it! There felt like there was a bit of a dash for the dunes as the internal gates opened, so we thought we'd opt out & cruise a little slower... until (dope!) we realised that, with ~65kms to cover to get to the main dunes, you can very easily miss the whole sunrise event. Dawn light crept up as we were driving, but that lovely gentle light stayed on a good while as we started with Deadvlei. We did the mandatory dune climb, which was a little bizarre. Then took in the adjoining petrified forest, where everyone is angling for that perfect/ iconic picture.
Feck it, so here's a few of my attempts (eye roll)!!
 |
| Deadvlei |
 |
| Sossusvlei |
 |
| Deadvlei |
 |
| Dune 45 |
Namib Nauklauft
Had to do a double take as we arrived at this, our final, unassuming NWR park. Not a forgiving welcome, with dry rocky mountains & very hot, but a lovely surprise campsite at the end of it! After checking in at a nice new-looking reception building, we made our way to the campsite set on two levels of shady sites along a babbling brook within a little canyon! Uncanny given all the harsh dryness seemingly everywhere else!
This place was so relaxing, so tucked away & isolated (in a good way), we felt another level of chilled. While here we did 2 wee hikes, which Ben has covered in his post here.
After dinner, we relaxed by the fire with some wine. When you break your hypnotized gaze from the fire, the canyon opposite seems to pop with 3D sharpness, exaggerated by the star-painted sky above. A genet (gorgeous slinky cat-like animal) came visiting, doing it's nightly rounds in search for food... Aaah, idyllic right?
Until BAM the baboons roll into camp to generally cause mayhem about 6.30/ 7am... They unlatch the bin hatches, tipping anything out to riffle through & drag litter along their route. I've often heard that the animal kingdom is so much about fronting. Well, Ben had a rather humbling experience there as he tried to face off a baboon (I'll let him tell you...!). And again as we were packing up to leave & after I'd already chased off one cheeky baboon (better prepared now after Waterberg & Ben's story!), the animal was back - having Ben & I running in circles after it like fools until we finally cleared it off. Whilst I'd say it would've looked like a farcical skit, this baboon was way too confident in human presence (it had moved onto our neighbours - dashed through 3 women, into the back of a car where our 4th neighbour was sorting food, to grab a packet of spuds) - only a matter of time before it becomes a 'problem' animal & has to be removed. But don't let naughty baboons put you off, this was such a lovely stay!!
 |
| Namib Nauklauft entry gate |
This place was so relaxing, so tucked away & isolated (in a good way), we felt another level of chilled. While here we did 2 wee hikes, which Ben has covered in his post here.
After dinner, we relaxed by the fire with some wine. When you break your hypnotized gaze from the fire, the canyon opposite seems to pop with 3D sharpness, exaggerated by the star-painted sky above. A genet (gorgeous slinky cat-like animal) came visiting, doing it's nightly rounds in search for food... Aaah, idyllic right?
Until BAM the baboons roll into camp to generally cause mayhem about 6.30/ 7am... They unlatch the bin hatches, tipping anything out to riffle through & drag litter along their route. I've often heard that the animal kingdom is so much about fronting. Well, Ben had a rather humbling experience there as he tried to face off a baboon (I'll let him tell you...!). And again as we were packing up to leave & after I'd already chased off one cheeky baboon (better prepared now after Waterberg & Ben's story!), the animal was back - having Ben & I running in circles after it like fools until we finally cleared it off. Whilst I'd say it would've looked like a farcical skit, this baboon was way too confident in human presence (it had moved onto our neighbours - dashed through 3 women, into the back of a car where our 4th neighbour was sorting food, to grab a packet of spuds) - only a matter of time before it becomes a 'problem' animal & has to be removed. But don't let naughty baboons put you off, this was such a lovely stay!!
In Summary...
Funniest moment?
Probably Ben baring all when his towel fell climbing into the rooftop tent - gave a yelp which caused me to spotlight him. Nice one Ben, eyeful for the campsite ;)
Best accomodation?
Tough to say as so varied with different highlights... but will give it to Onguma (next to Etosha gate).
Best moment?
Sorry to duck this one but honestly couldn't say. Lots of WOW moments.
Worst moment?
When there was no water for a shower at Hoada camp (after maurauding baboons - see a theme?), after a hot sweaty day - if you knew how much I love my pre-bed shower! ;) But still, that's as bad as it got! Oh hang on... that or leaving Namibia?
Carry forward?
How doable & rewarding these trips are! And how quick an electric kettle boils. Where are the flies? And that our neighbour snoring at night is not a lion grunting... Adjusting back to city life!
A great trip - experience, people met, wildlife, & the landscapes (sorry I know I've said it a number of times!!) are just unreal. Expansive & wild. Causes the eye to falter, the throat to tighten.
No comments:
Post a Comment